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Solar Generator Buying Guide: Size It Right in 10 Minutes

By the WattPick Lab test team · Updated September 2026 · 6 min read
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A "solar generator" is just a battery (power station) plus solar panels. That simplicity is why most buying mistakes are sizing mistakes — people overbuy capacity and underbuy panel input, or the reverse. Here's the whole process in three steps.

Step 1 · List your loads (be honest)

ApplianceTypical drawHours/day in an outageDaily Wh
Fridge (mid-size)100–200W running8 (cycling)~1,000–1,600
Wi-Fi router + modem10–20W24~250–480
Laptop / phone charging30–90W6~200–500
LED lights (whole room)10–30W6~60–180
CPAP (no humidifier)30–60W8~250–480
Microwave~1,000–1,500W0.25~250–375

Ranges are typical field figures — check the nameplate on your own appliances for real numbers.

Step 2 · Do the runtime math once

Daily Wh needed → add 20% inverter losses → divide by 0.85 (usable fraction) → that's your minimum capacity.
Example: 1,500Wh of daily loads × 1.2 = 1,800 → ÷ 0.85 ≈ 2,100Wh minimum for one fully-solar day.

Translate that to products: a 1kWh unit covers the "fridge + router + lights + phones" day with wall recharging backup; a 2kWh unit covers it comfortably even if the sun doesn't cooperate; 4kWh+ expandable systems are for essential-circuit whole-home duty.

Step 3 · Size the panel input, not just the panels

The three mistakes that waste money

  1. Buying capacity without input. A big battery that refills slowly is a bigger problem than a small one that refills fast.
  2. Ignoring chemistry. For indoor, frequently-cycled units, LFP (LiFePO4) over NMC is worth any modest price difference — cycle life is 3–5x.
  3. Skipping the surge check. Well pumps, compressors, and some fridges spike hard at startup. If your load list includes motors, leave 2x headroom on inverter rating.

Put it together